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2016年03月26日 18:00~23:40




学术主持:José Teunissen


支持:哈恩·内夫肯斯基金会、Control Union






10:10—10:40 Han Nefkens,哈恩·内夫肯斯基金会创始人

10:40—11:10 José Teunissen,独立时尚策展人

11:10—11:40 Sjarel Ex,博伊曼斯·范伯宁恩美术馆馆长




13:40—14:10 Tasha Liu,栋梁DONGLIANG联合创始人

14:10—14:40 Rem D. KoolhaasUnited Nude创始人

14:40—15:10 Dolci & Kabana,澳洲参展设计师

15:10—15:20 Johan MarisControl Union执行总监




Han Nefkens

荷兰作家,艺术活动家。他于2000年开始收藏当代艺术作品,他的Han Nefkens H+F Collection已有500件作品,现在分别被收藏于欧洲的各大博物馆。之后他创建了ArtAids,利用艺术作品来对抗艾滋病带来的负面影响。他还通过哈恩·内夫肯斯基金会,以委托作品、驻场项目、颁发奖项和奖金的形式激励年轻的艺术家、作家和时尚设计师。



José Teunissen

伦敦时装学院设计与技术学院院长,ArtEZ艺术学院时尚理论与研究系的访问学者,独立时尚策展人,荷兰创意产业委员会董事会成员,CLICK/Next Fashion(荷兰政府创新产业)协会主席。在2015年,她关注到Centre of Expertise Future Makers,决心专注于时尚与设计的革新。她参与编辑了包括《时尚与想象》(2009)、《时尚的艺术》(2009),《Couturegraphique》(2013),《时尚的冒险旅程》(2013),《时尚:当下即未来》(2014),《衣着之外》等书。


Sjarel Ex

Sjarel Ex,博伊曼斯·范伯宁恩美术馆馆长。他早年在乌特勒支学习艺术史,深研荷兰早期艺术先锋派和杂志《风格派》涉及的艺术家和建筑师。1984-1987年,他在阿姆斯特丹自由大学研究现代派艺术家Vilmos Huszár, Piet Zwart Theo van Doesburg,撰写过关于Vilmos Huszár以及Theo van Doesburg与风格派如何影响包豪斯建筑的文章。自1980年来,Sjarel Ex发表了许多文章、专栏和演讲,他最新的出版物论述了Lajos d'Ébneth(匈牙利/荷兰艺术家)、Andor WeiningerKurt Schwitters与荷兰先锋派之间的关系。


刘馨遐(Tasha Liu


栋梁作为中国最早推介本土先锋设计的概念店铺,将海外受教的中国青年设计师与具有丰富且优质消费经验的购买群体建立了有效连接。 7年的店铺历程,栋梁先后与洛杉矶买手店H.Lorenzo,时尚电商平台Farfetch.com,以及全球民宿预定平台airbnb有过令人印象深刻的合作。此外,栋梁也是第一家受邀在伦敦时装周亮相的中国设计师品牌买手店,并开创先例地在上海时装周拥有栋梁一日,为其合作设计师进行集体性的时装发表。


Dolci & KabanaD&K

D&K是一个由艺术家Ricarda Bigolin和策展人Nella Themelios发起的项目。这个项目对时尚品牌的发展策略和方向进行调查、模仿和评论。它对时尚品牌的方方面面进行考量,尤其致力于破解时尚体系中的比喻、熟语以及手势。D&K游戏于高端时尚那难以琢磨的品质之间,同时也探索着大规模生产体系的边界。

D&K位于墨尔本,展览遍及澳大利亚及国际舞台。2014D&K获得“哈恩·内夫肯斯时装大奖”,并参加了由荷赛·突尼辛策划,在博伊曼斯美术馆(鹿特丹)举办的群展“时尚:当下即未来”(2014)。其他近期项目包括:由Jessica BuggAnna-Nicole Ziesche策划的“时装与表演:物质性,意义与媒介”(2015);由Chicks on Speed策划的“CFS USA之旅:洛杉矶”(2015);在公交车方案举行的个展:“#thathautecouturefeeling”(2013)以及“品牌错觉”(2012)。


Johan Maris

Control Union执行总监。在过去10多年里,该联盟是纺织业的积极参与者,也是纺织品检验和认证领域是行业内的佼佼者。在此期间,Control Union对于纺织业在整个供应链下所面临的问题及做法方面建立了深刻的理解。例如,在棉毛衣供应链方面,该联盟走访了乌干达的棉农,和为零售做最后一道工序的中国工厂,从而以一种可持续的方式应对各种挑战,例如工作条件、水、动物福利以及良好农业做法等等。尽管如此,他们仍然感到任道重远。如今,该联盟正在为责任制羊毛和皮革项目服务,同时还是联合国全球契约(United Nations Global Compact)在蓝色数字发布方面的战略合作伙伴。蓝色数字是一个有着雄心壮志的计划,旨在为全世界的农民(无论大小)提供进行市场的机会。















Forum: D-TALK·Series 10 | The Future of Fashion is Now

Time: 2016.3.26 10:0015:40

Venue: OCT Art (Next to the OCT Art&Design Gallery)

Language: English (Chinese translation)

Moderator: José Teunissen

Organizers: OCT Art&Design GalleryDutchCulture, center for international cooperation

Supporters: Han Nefkens FoundationControl Union

Enrollment: Please click the bottom link to sign up and enter 20min in advance.  



Morning Session | Fashion Exhibition Curation and Collection

10:00—10:10 | Speech by OCT Art&Design Gallery

10:10—10:40 | Han Nefkens, Founder of Han Nefkens Foundation

10:40—11:10 | José Teunissen, Independent fashion curator

11:10—11:40 | Sjarel Ex, Director of Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen

11:4012:10 | Discussion, Q&A

Afternoon Session | Trends and New Concepts in Fashion Market and Industry

13:30—13:40| Speech by DutchCulture, center for international cooperation

13:40—14:10| Tasha Li, Co-founder of DONGLIANG

14:10—14:40| Rem D. Koolhaas, Founder of United Nude

14:40—15:10|Dolci & Kaban, Australian participating artist

15:10—15:20| Johan Maris, Managing director of Control Union

15:20—15:40| Discussion, Q&A


About Speakers


Han Nefkens

The Dutch writer and art activist Han Nefkens has made his home in Barcelona. In 2000 he began collecting international contemporary art and his Han Nefkens H+F Collection comprising close to 500 works is now housed in a number of European museums. He later set up ArtAids, which employs art in the fight against the stigma surrounding HIV. Through the Han Nefkens Foundation he stimulates young artists, writers and fashion designers with commissions, residencies, prizes and stipends.

In Spain, the Han Nefkens Foundation-MACBA Award focusses on artists from the Mediterranean area while the Han Nefkens Foundation-BACC Award for Contemporary Art in Bangkok is given to promising young Asian artists. For many years, Han Nefkens Fashion on the Edge – now called The Future of Fashion is Now - has been organizing highly distinctive exhibitions at Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam with works by established and up-and-coming fashion talents. The Han Nefkens Fashion Award is given every two years to young designers exploring the area between fashion and art.


José Teunissen 

José Teunissen is Dean of School of Design and Technology at London College of Fashion (UAL), holds a Visiting Professorship in Fashion Theory and Research at ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, and works as an independent fashion curator. She is currently a board member of the Dutch Creative Industries Council. She is chair of the network CLICK/Next Fashion, the governmental innovation network for the creative industries in the Netherlands. In 2015 she realised the Centre of Expertise Future Makers, dedicated to new making processes in fashion and design. She co-edited many books, including Fashion and Imagination, 2009; The Art of Fashion, 2009; Couturegraphique, 2013; Fashion Odyssey, 2013; The Future of Fashion is Now, 2014; and Everything but Clothes, 2015.


Sjarel Ex

Director of Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen. He studied art history in Utrecht (1976-1983, cum laude). He specialises in the early Dutch avant-garde and the artists and architects around the magazine De Stijl. From 1984 until 1987 he was affiliated to the ZWO/Vrije Universiteit undertaking research into the modernist artists Vilmos Huszár, Piet Zwart and Theo van Doesburg. He has written about Vilmos Huszár and about the influence of Theo van Doesburg and De Stijl on the Bauhaus. His most recent publication have dealt with the Hungarian/Dutch artists Lajos d'Ébneth and Andor Weininger, and Kurt Schwitters’ relationships with the Dutch avant-garde. Since 1980 he has published articles, columns and speeches.


Tasha Liu

Co-Founder & Marketing Director of DONGLIANG, The multi-brand concept store DONGLIANG dedicated to showcasing Chinese designers was founded in Beijing and has since expanded to Shanghai, from five to thirty designers stocked in store.

Dong Liang rides on the pioneering wave of Chinese committed concept stores –– marrying a supply of fashion designers educated overseas with an audience straying away from conspicuous luxury brands. 

The seven-year-old retailer, founded in Beijing before its expansion to Shanghai, has since collaborated with H.Lorenzo, Farfetch.com, and Airbnb. They were also the first Chinese multi-brand retailer invited to show at London Fashion Week in September 2013. At Shanghai Fashion Week, Dong Liang has a dedicated day per season to present catwalk shows.


Dolci & Kabana (D&K)

D&K is a project between artist and lecturer Ricarda Bigolin and curator Nella Themelios. D&K investigates, imitates and critiques the aspirations and strategies of fashion branding. The project considers all of the constituent parts of a fashion brand, focusing on unraveling the tropes, clichés and gestures that underlie these elements. D&K plays with the elusive quality of high fashion, as well as exploring the other end of this spectrum - the diffused and mass-produced product. 

D&K is based in Melbourne and has exhibited in Australia and internationally. In 2014 D&K was the recipient of the Han Nefkens Fashion on the Edge Award and featured in the group exhibition The Future of Fashion is Now (2014), curated by Jose Teunissen at the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen, Rotterdam. Other recent projects include: Fashion & Performance: Materiality, Meaning, Media(2015), curated by Jessica Bugg and Anna-Nicole Ziesche; CFS USA Tour: LA (2015), curated by Centre for Style at Chin’s Push, Los Angeles; MCA Artbar, Twentieth Edition (2014), curated by Chicks on Speed; #thathautecouturefeeling (2013), solo exhibition at Bus Projects; and Brand Delusions (2012), solo exhibition at Bus Projects.


Johan Maris

Managing director of Control Union, a global player on inspections and certifications, has been active in the textile sector for over a decade now. During these years they have built up a deep understanding of the practices and challenges that the sector is facing throughout the whole supply chain. For example the supply chain of a cotton sweater, for which they visit farmers in Uganda who grow the raw cotton, up to the garment factories in china, who process the final product, ready to be sold in the retailer. Doing so, they have found sustainable answers to different challenges such as working conditions, water, animal welfare and good agricultural practices as well as many others. Nevertheless, they feel there is still a lot to do. Nowadays Control Union is working on “responsible wool and leather” as well as being a strategic partner of the United Nations Global Compact in regard to the launch of so called “blue numbers”; an ambitious project to give all farmers (big & small) in the world access to the market.


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